Bordeaux
France’s sixth biggest city has undergone a remarkable transformation over the past few years. Bordeaux has always been beautiful, but for a long time much of the place’s upkeep was shamefully neglected. Now decades of grime have been cleaned off, derelict warehouses have been demolished and a new riverside promenade has been created.
Where to stay
Seeko’o Hotel (54 quai de Bacalan, www.seekoo-hotel.com) is definitely the hippest hotel to have hit Bordeaux in centuries. The gleaming white iceberg (the hotel’s name, Seeko’o, is Inuit for ‘iceberg’) stands out in pearly splendour in the newly happening Bacalan warehouse district.
Where to eat and drink
Le Petit Commerce (22 rue du Parlement Saint-Pierre, www.le-petit-commerce.info) is all about superb fresh fish and shellfish delivered daily from the ports of Arcachon and Royan and served without frills. It likes to call itself a ‘fish canteen’ rather than a restaurant, and you can just as easily snack at the Formica bar over a plate of whelks as feast on turbot at one of the tables.
Getting there
Bordeaux-Mérignac airport (www.bordeaux.aeroport.fr) is 10km from the city. TGV from Paris (3hrs).
When to go
Spring, early summer and autumn are the best times to visit. High summer can be oppressively hot.